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"Tainan 400‧Exquisite Food─Tshuē Restaurant" series of reports 5: Taiwanese flavor in ancient houses, the dining scene of Zhuxinju's no-menu dishes 2024/11/08
The traces of time and the centuries-old houses complement each other, quietly becoming the scenery of Zhuxinju. (Photographed by Zhang Yunshu)

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Can you imagine what it would be like to dine in a century-old house? Two old houses that are more than a century old on Xinyi Street in the Central and Western District of Tainan, with exposed red bricks and walls made of a mixture of oyster ash and glutinous rice, have a nostalgic atmosphere without deliberately trying to do it. They serve Taiwanese dishes at the table, focusing only on taste but not on service. Zhuxinju, what you taste is pure delicious food and local heritage.

Tainan Mayor Huang Weizhe said that there are many unique old houses in Tainan, such as Zhuxinju on Xinyi Street, because restaurants give old houses new life, and because food connects more outsiders with Tainan. . Zhou Rongtang, the head of Zhuxinju, who is known as Brother Yong, took over the restaurant by chance. In order to provide more spacious space for dining customers and to receive friends from Japan, he carefully renovated the old restaurant across the street from the original restaurant 1. The house was reorganized and the business expanded. In a short period of time, Zhuxinju 2 was opened. The wall decorated with wine jars, a room full of old antiques, traces of time and the centuries-old house complement each other, quietly becoming the scenery of Zhuxinju.

Zhuxinju serves no-menu cuisine, using seasonal ingredients from all over Taiwan to create a variety of Taiwanese dishes. This business philosophy and model comes from Yong Ge’s experience. When I was young, I worked with my uncle to cook food. I liked the strong human touch and mellow cuisine of Taiwanese food. However, not everyone often has the opportunity to eat such rich (phong-phài) dishes. And with the passage of time, space and time, the traditional cooking method has changed. Tables are declining day by day. In order to retain this flavor, he subverts the general banquet table format of full banquets, adopts a per-person basis, and distributes dishes at discretion. No matter the number of people, everyone can enjoy the complete dishes, and presents table dishes in different forms. The style of the restaurant has allowed table dishes to find a new positioning. The reservation-based and no-menu approach not only eliminates the food waste problem that catering operators are most worried about, effectively controls costs, but also feeds back into the actual dishes. , create a win-win situation where both you and your customers are happy. Although this approach was questioned by customers at first, Brother Yong could only put more effort into finding ingredients and designing and preparing dishes so that customers could understand his intentions. In order to maintain quality, he does not hesitate to spend more on ingredients. When many restaurants reduce the cost of ingredients in order to survive, Brother Yong instead increases the cost of ingredients to 40 to 50%. Even if the ingredients increase, he would rather pay for it himself and earn less. , and do not want customers to spend the same money but enjoy a meal that is not as good as expected. "We don't focus on service, but put food first." He has the hard-working temperament and high standards of a desk clerk. He insists that only when he has passed his own level can he serve food to customers. He treats ingredients and ingredients with an almost harsh attitude. Pondering on cooking skills, Zhuxinju has been repeatedly recognized by Michelin Bib Gourmand.

Zhuxinju, which is located in an alley, is also a store that many celebrities and even foreign tourists like to visit. The fate that has contributed to this relationship is not only the people, but also the alley life that originated here. Lin Guohua, director of the Tourism Bureau, said that alley culture has always been Tainan's heritage. It is like a profound texture embedded in the city. It closely matches daily life and reflects the pure and strong true nature of this land. Visitors can feel it from here. Tainan, get to know Tainan through Zhuxinju’s traditional Taiwanese cuisine. He is very integrated into the local area and has become a local Yongge. Starting from building a new home, he is now a chef with a shovel, making good friends and letting the delicious food flow into the hearts of more people, making Tainan a better place. The culture and heritage are once again conveyed through the sense of taste.

2024 coincides with Tainan 400. The Tourism Bureau has specially cooperated with Mr. Zhang Yunshu, the author of "Tainan Table Chef" to plan "Tainan 400‧Mobile Feast─Come and Serve a Table" and "Tainan 400‧Exquisite Food─Tshuē Restaurant" ” series of reports. A series of activities of "Tainan 400 City Food" have also been launched since September. "Tainan 400 City Food 37 Districts Touring Mobile Exhibition" will come to Longqi District Bamboo Charcoal Story Center "Bamboo Picking Festival" event this Saturday (11/9) , and in conjunction with the Taiwan Design Exhibition, we will come to the North District Lane 321 Art Settlement on Sunday (11/10). For details, please visit the "Tainan 400-City Food" website . Welcome to follow the " Tainan Tourism Network " and " Tainan Tourism Fan Page " at any time to get the latest information on Tainan sightseeing and activities.

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