首頁/ 最新消息/ "Tainan 400‧A Movable Feast - Let's Host a Table" Series Report 15 Hidden secrets, a test of kung fu, Master A Yong's bag hydrangea chicken
"Tainan 400‧A Movable Feast - Let's Host a Table" Series Report 15 Hidden secrets, a test of kung fu, Master A Yong's bag hydrangea chicken 2024/08/09
Instead of the traditional banquet where the whole fish is served intact, A Yongshi's oily gentian grouper is full of color, flavor and taste. It tastes good when eaten. (Photographed by Zhang Yunshu)

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Wang Yiyong (Master A Yong), who has led Taiwan's desk-making industry to leap forward, regards desk-making as his career in life. He has been an apprentice with his father since he was eight years old. He has accumulated more than a dozen years of skills and experience. The unique skills he has honed are displayed in the feasts he organized and the exciting dishes he prepared.

Pre-cooked scallops, shark's fins, ham, bamboo shoots, mushrooms and other delicacies are stuffed into the silky chicken with the breast bones and internal organs removed, making the chicken body look like a bulging cloth bag. Put it into a stew pot, then add the soup base and steam it together. This hydrangea chicken with hidden secrets is a specialty dish of Master A Yong, and it is also a common dish on the tables of "A Yong's Catering Business". The selection of ingredients is very particular. Compatible ingredients must be carefully selected to bring out the umami and mellow flavor. The cooking process must be divided into separate tasks to accurately control the heat. Only under the blend of time and temperature can the rich and delicate layers be perfectly presented. It originated from the famous restaurant dish "Babao Chicken" in the early years. Chef Ayong said that because there is a universe in the belly of the baguji, it symbolizes making money in the bag, so it is also called "wealthy baguji". It was an Asshe dish that could only be enjoyed by wealthy families in the early years, and it was also a festive meal. A delicacy that brings good luck when entertaining guests or entering the house.

Tainan Mayor Huang Weizhe said that chickens were poultry often raised by people in agricultural societies in the past. They were not only a must-have sacrifice when praying, but also an indispensable ingredient for people to prepare tables. In Taiwanese, "chicken" has the same pronunciation as "ke" (ke). , chickens are commonly used at banquets to symbolize "starting a family" (khí-ke), which is a good omen for starting a family and starting a business. There is also a saying that "eat chickens, and you will start a family." By cooking and eating chickens, it is expected that the family will be prosperous. Prosperity has unique symbolic meaning.

Lin Guohua, director of the Tourism Bureau, said that in the evolution of Taiwanese cuisine, in addition to the home-cooked dishes developed by ordinary people, in the past era when social classes were clearly defined, there was another type of "A-style dishes" for wealthy people to entertain guests at home. "Shecai" uses high-quality ingredients and is cooked with more delicate techniques. It is similar to private kitchens, distinguishing it from the simple diet of ordinary people, and forming a unique food culture. Master A Yong’s Budai Hydrangea Chicken is a typical Ashe dish. It combines and stacks different ingredients with complicated processes. It not only tests the chef’s cooking skills, but also often surprises in terms of visual and taste. It’s just that the production is too labor-intensive and time-consuming. In addition, the younger generation is increasingly unable to appreciate it. It is hard to find close friends, which discourages the masters. It is rare to make, and the cooking skills are gradually being lost. Chef Ayong is still willing to race against the clock. It’s even rarer to have this dish on a dining table.

A Yong’s special dish is the oily gentian grouper he developed himself. Take the gentian grouper, which has firmer meat and larger size, and abandons the quick and easy Sichuan blanching method. Instead, cook it in low-temperature oil to lock in the moisture and amino acids of the fish, while also making the surface look smooth and plump. The sauce boiled with soy sauce and fish sauce is poured on the grouper in the pot. The chewy fish meat is especially sweet and smooth with the flavor of the glycol sauce. In order to make the dish taste better and easier to eat after serving, Chef Ayong specially slices the gentian grouper to present the dish with a more delicate appearance. Having mastered the art of keeping a table from full meals in the early days to eating skillfully today, Master Ayong keeps pace with the times by not only developing new dishes, but also by focusing on the big picture and small things, and pays more attention to details. Each delicacy is carefully crafted by him. With his attitude and skillful cooking skills, he shows a new style of Taiwanese cuisine.

2024 coincides with Tainan 400. The Tourism Bureau has specially cooperated with Mr. Zhang Yunshu, the author of "Tainan Table Chef" to plan "Tainan 400‧Mobile Feast─Come and Serve a Table" and "Tainan 400‧Exquisite Food─Tshuē Restaurant" ” series of reports, leading the public to get to know Tainan’s chefs and taste unique hand-made dishes. For more related content, please stay tuned to the “Tainan Tourism Network”.

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