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"Tainan 400‧Mobile Feast—Come and Serve the Table" Series Report 10 Quy Nhon Food Serves the Table, "Su Family Banquet" Su Jia hopes to show off her rich craftsmanship 2024/06/12
Now the Su family father and son work together to host the Su family banquet. (Photographed by Zhang Yunshu)

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There are many famous banquet chefs along the Nanguan Line. When it comes to catering in Quy Nhon area, we must mention the "Su Family Banquet" which has been passed down for four generations and is still active in the catering industry.

Tainan Mayor Huang Weizhe said that the local proverb "Three cooks support a village" in Quy Nhon is a reflection of Ma Miao Village (today's Ma Miaoli) in Gui Nhon in its early years. It refers to the scene when the local kitchen was in full swing. Three cooks have led to the prosperity of Zhuangtou, located on the border. Although in recent years, with the rapid development of Quy Nhon area, the catering industry of A Miao, a small settlement, has also changed, the local cooks are still active.

The Su family banquet in A Temple. The first generation Zhang Mei married into the Su family and made a living by selling oil soup. His son Su Wentong studied with his father since he was a child. Later, he sold fried rice noodles, braised fish, fish ball soup and other hot dishes in the A Temple market. At the same time, he also helped the neighbors to prepare tables. From the early days of "working out" as a cook, to borrowing dishes and utensils from others, the business gradually expanded to a somewhat large-scale operation. In the early agricultural society, people would kill pigs and sheep to pray to God for marriage, and then use pigs, sheep and the three sacrificial animals as ingredients for the table. Su Wentong is good at making full use of the scraps of chicken, duck and pig parts to create different dishes. Not only is his craftsmanship excellent, , the food tastes good, and he is more calm and orderly when handling the table, without panic or chaos, and is well-known in the local area as the "Old Pig Master", laying a solid foundation for the Su family's banquets. The third generation Su Jiajin did not return home until he was in his twenties to officially learn art from his father. He started working as a small worker. Although he started later than others, he was more diligent. He followed his father through the streets and alleys to work at tables. He studied hard for many years and in his twenties After getting married at the age of eight, he officially took over the spatula from his father, Lao Zhushi, to support the family business.

Lin Guohua, director of the Tourism Bureau, said that today catering has developed a professional division of labor around the peripheral industries required for desk work, including the erection of scaffolding tables and chairs, the supply of boilers and appliances, and even semi-finished products and OEMs have emerged. The chefs then coordinate And connect these industries to form an industrial chain and collaborative relationship. However, in the early years, table-keeping in Taiwan was not as convenient as it is today. It was often done by the cook, so it was possible to train all-round table-keeping masters. It was against this background that Su Jiajin, because of his father's one-stop training, allowed him to master all the procedures and essentials of running a desk, and became proficient in everything. From the hardships at the beginning, he gradually became more convenient as the trends of the times developed. Go with the flow. Su Jiajin combines the skill of the old pig chef with his own passion for cooking, coupled with the spirit of strict self-discipline and the determination to fulfill his mission when handling the table. He was so busy for three days and two nights that he did not close his eyes to prepare the table. Therefore, regardless of weddings, funerals, temple fairs Festivals, industrial and commercial groups all like to ask him to host tables, making him a well-known celebrity chef on the Nanguan Line.

The banquet hosted by Su Jiajin was not only commendable with its ancient cuisine, but he was also keen on community activities and participated in many societies including the Lions Club. He was also the designated chef for many industrial and commercial groups. He often undertakes group banquets that emphasize novelty and ostentation. He also develops new dishes with his mind, transforming affordable seasonal ingredients into exquisite and high-end Kung Fu dishes. He also intersperses customized dishes at the banquet, allowing guests to enjoy the dishes. There's always a surprise when it's served. Su Jiajin said that times have changed, and concepts must also change. In the past, it was believed that the cook was the chef, but now it is "the chef who eats." The guests may know better taste and are more knowledgeable than the chef, so there is no need to be sloppy when handling the table. In addition to constantly improving and innovating dishes, he also pays more attention to real ingredients and practicality. He will never compromise on how to discuss the menu with the host and how to make it. He abides by the agreement with the host. Su Jiajin cooks like a human being. , always upholding the word "integrity". In 2023, the "Qui Nhon Table Dining" event, which had not been held for three years due to the epidemic, was held again. Su Jiajin was invited by the Quy Nhon District Office to jointly host a banquet with Mr. Chen Zhenwang, the chief shopkeeper. After the organizer opened the reservation, in just a short time It was fully booked within half an hour, which shows how well received it is.

Today, Su Jiajin's son Su Zhongde has also inherited his father's craftsmanship, step by step from handyman to chef, and helps at the Su family's banquets. The father and son have also shared the stage many times. In the future, they hope to jointly open a restaurant and move towards a more stable operation. Treating cooking as his life, relying on his attentiveness and rigorous personality to develop mellow skills, in front of the big pot and ladle, Su Jiajin dished out not only delicious dishes, but also the splendor of the Su family's banquet.

2024 coincides with Tainan 400. The Tourism Bureau has specially cooperated with Mr. Zhang Yunshu, the author of "Tainan Table Chef" to plan "Tainan 400‧Mobile Feast─Come and Serve a Table" and "Tainan 400‧Exquisite Food─Tshuē Restaurant" ” series of reports have been serialized since March to introduce Tainan’s table chefs and invite the public to come to Tainan to taste the delicacies and experience the exquisite cooking skills of local chefs. For more related content, please stay tuned to " Tainan Tourism" net ".

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